Camembert, Brie, Saint Nectaire, Comté… sont autant de fromages prisés des Français. Comptant près de 1200 variétés, notre terroir continue de séduire le consommateur : un Français mange en moyenne 25 kilos de fromage par an. Le fromage végétal a beau séduire un nombre croissant de consommateurs, le fromage classique reste encore souvent un produit phare de nos apéros. Seulement voilà : une étude publiée en 2018 dans la revue Science affirme que la production d’1 kg de fromage équivaut à 23,9 kg de gaz à effet de serre (GES). Pour nous, Français, c’est le drame ! Pour diminuer notre empreinte carbone, devons-nous arrêter de consommer du fromage de vache ou de chèvre et leur préférer le fromage végétal ?
Petits rappels techniques
Qu’est-ce qu’un gaz à effet de serre ?
Un gaz à effet de serre est un gaz qui emprisonne la chaleur dans l’atmosphère et crée une couche qui enveloppe et réchauffe la terre (comme nos couvertures en hiver). Cette couche absorbe la chaleur qui est réfléchie par la surface de la Terre. Les gaz à effet de serre les plus communs sont le méthane, le protoxyde d’azote, l’ozone ou encore la vapeur d’eau (eh oui !).
L’équivalent CO2
Lorsqu’on tente d’évaluer les effets d’un gaz à effet de serre, il est courant de calculer son équivalent en dioxyde de carbone ; c’est le fameux équivalent CO2. En effet, chaque GES se distingue notamment par :
- la quantité d’énergie qu’il est capable d’absorber ;
- sa durée de vie dans l’atmosphère.
Cette unité de mesure a été créée par le GIEC afin de comparer les effets des différents GES sur le réchauffement climatique et de calculer le cumul de leurs émissions. Pour se faire une idée concrète, voici les équivalents CO2 des principaux gaz à effet de serre :
| PRG, Potentiel de Réchauffement Global (eq CO2) | ||
| Sur une période de 20 ans | Sur une période de 100 ans | |
| CO2 (dioxyde de carbone) | 1 | 1 |
| CH4 (méthane) | 84 | 28 |
| N2O (protoxyde d’azote) | 264 | 265 |
| CF4 (tétrafluorure de carbone) | 4880 | 6630 |
| HFC-152a (1,1-difluoroéthane) | 506 | 138 |
Source : ©Connaissance des Énergies, d’après le 5ème rapport du GIEC.
Qu’est-ce que le méthane et quel est son effet sur l’environnement ?
Quand on parle des émissions de la production fromagère, on cible surtout le méthane. En effet, les vaches (comme la plupart des ruminants) produisent principalement du méthane et du dioxyde de carbone. Toutefois, si on se réfère au tableau plus haut, les effets délétères du méthane sur le climat – sur 100 ans – sont 28 fois plus élevés que ceux du dioxyde de carbone. Cela signifie que le rejet d’environ 100 kg de méthane équivaut au rejet d’environ 2800 kg de dioxyde de carbone. Inquiétant, n’est-ce pas ?
L’empreinte carbone du fromage : des études alarmantes
On sait déjà que la viande de bœuf est la championne des émissions de GES, mais génère-t-on aussi des gaz à effet de serre quand on mange du camembert ?
Répondre à cette question n’est pas toujours mince affaire. Bien qu’elles s’accordent souvent sur leurs conclusions (les produits animaux sont plus émetteurs de GES que les végétaux), les études produisent des données radicalement différentes. Prenons quelques exemples ; pour 1kg de fromage, ce sont :
- 8,8 kg d’équivalent CO2 pour les chercheurs de University of Wisconsin–Madison (page 11 de l’étude) ;
- 23,9 kg d’équivalent CO2 selon Science en 2018 (figure 1) ;
- 13,5 kg d’équivalent CO2 selon le Environmental Working Group en 2011 (figure 2)
Figure 1
Figure 2
Comment expliquer de tels écarts dans les calculs ? C’est principalement une question de méthodologie ! D’une part, toutes les études ne font pas leurs calculs selon les mêmes critères. D’autre part, elles n’utilisent pas les mêmes données car leurs sources diffèrent. Pour tenter de réduire au maximum ces écarts méthodologiques, les études récentes s’efforcent de se mettre au diapason. Elles tentent donc de calculer les empreintes carbone sur l’intégralité du cycle de vie.
L’analyse du cycle de vie
L’analyse du cycle de vie (ACV) est une valeur attribuée à un produit, prenant en compte tous les impacts environnementaux et sanitaires associés à la production et à l’utilisation de ce produit sur l’ensemble de son cycle de vie.
Life Cycle Assessment : description du cycle de vie du fromage (Understand the Carbon Footprint of Cheese, University of Wisconsin–Madison, 2011)
L’ACV est un moyen d’évaluer le caractère soutenable d’un processus de production. Les modalités de calcul d’une ACV comptabilisent la manière dont les matières premières sont acquises, les émissions émises et ce qui se passe dans la production, l’utilisation, le recyclage et/ou la destruction du produit.
Fromage classique VS fromage végétal : comparer des choux et des carottes ?
Pour comparer tous les aliments sur un pied d’égalité, il faut utiliser une même unité de mesure. C’est pourquoi toutes les quantités dans les études correspondent à 1 kg de produit.
De la même manière que pour comparer le prix de deux fruits un consommateur ramène les prix au kilo, pour comparer les impacts environnementaux de deux produits, on ramènera les impacts à une unité de mesure commune.
ADEME, Comment réalise-t-on une ACV.
Cependant, nous mangeons des aliments principalement pour les nutriments essentiels qu’ils nous apportent. La masse des aliments n’a aucun intérêt nutritionnel : on se doute bien qu’il vaut mieux manger 1 kg de carottes ou de poulet plutôt qu’1 kg de sucre de table.
La valeur nutritionnelle : une mesure de comparaison plus pertinente
Le fromage, le yaourt et le soja sont des aliments très nutritifs puisqu’ils contiennent une large variété de nutriments. A titre d’exemple, comparons les qualités nutritionnelles du lait de vache par rapport au lait de soja, avec lequel on prépare le tofu, un fromage végétal fait à partir du lait de soja caillé.
Impacts environnementaux des laits
Pour le même poids, le lait de vache a une empreinte carbone 3 fois supérieure à celle du lait de soja. Toutefois, une étude a conclu que, sur la base de la densité nutritionnelle, l’empreinte carbone du lait de vache revient à la moitié de celle du lait de soja [1].
Fromage végétal à base de tofu
On peut aisément en déduire que 100 gr de fromage sont globalement plus nutritifs que 100 gr de tofu. Mais on consomme rarement autant de fromage en un repas – les orgies de raclette restent assez exceptionnelles 😉
Comparons le comparable : qu’en est-il des autres plantes avec lesquelles ont fait du fromage végétal ?
Le fromage végétal, la solution écolo pour l’apéro ?
Les oléagineux regorgent de nutriments et de protéines précieux, mais ils ont aussi une empreinte carbone particulièrement élevée – surtout si on les compare à d’autres plantes. Faute de données précises sur l’équivalent carbone des noix sur tout leur cycle de vie, nous devrons nous contenter d’informations plus incomplètes. Par ailleurs, en matière d’émissions carbone, les résultats varient selon qu’on mesure l’impact d’une noix brute ou du lait qui en est extrait. L’emballage ainsi que la transformation ont un impact environnemental qu’il faudra ajouter aux chiffres qui suivent.
Le fromage végétal d’amande
Fromage végétal à base d’amande
Une étude de l’Université du Michigan estime qu’1 kg d’amandes génère environ 2,3 kg de CO2. Ces émissions peuvent augmenter selon le degré de transformation de ces amandes. En effet, une étude menée par des chercheurs italiens précise que les amandes vendues en sachets de 100 grammes émettent 2,61 kg de CO2 au kilo, tandis que la pâte d’amande en pot émet entre 2,89 et 3,07 kg de CO2 au kilo.
Par ailleurs, 1 litre de lait d’amande émet moins d’1kg d’équivalent CO2. Mais, comme pour le fromage animal, il faut de nombreux litres de lait d’amande pour faire 1 kg de fromage végétal. Il est raisonnable d’en déduire que le fromage à base d’amande a une empreinte carbone supérieure, notamment parce que le fromage est un produit sec et concentré en lait d’amande.
Le fromage végétal de cajou
Fromage végétal à base de noix de cajou
Toujours selon l’étude de l’Université du Michigan, les noix de cajou affichent le pire score d’émissions carbone : 4,99 kg de CO2 au kilo. Cela peut s’expliquer en partie par les faibles rendements de la culture de cajou. En parallèle, les noix de cajou sont contenues dans une coque dure qui peut laisser échapper une huile caustique capable de brûler la peau des personnes qui les manipulent [2]. Cette huile est souvent éliminée par des traitements spécifiques, mais elle doit être manipulée avec soin pour s’assurer qu’elle ne s’échappe pas dans l’environnement. En bref : on peut imaginer que l’empreinte carbone du fromage végétal à base de cajou est bien supérieure à 5 kg d’équivalent CO2 sur la totalité de son cycle de vie.
Ces données permettent de relativiser l’intérêt de remplacer le fromage classique par du fromage végétal. Poser le problème de manière aussi binaire a finalement très peu d’intérêt : si l’on compare les 8,8 kg d’équivalent CO2 du fromage classique avec les +5 kg d’équivalent CO2 du fromage végétal de cajou… La différence nette est bien là, mais les noix de cajou n’ont pas le même intérêt nutritionnel que le fromage. Comparer des choux et des carottes n’a finalement pas beaucoup de sens.
Avant de nous priver, soyons mesurés !
En tout premier lieu, il ne s’agit pas ici de nier l’empreinte carbone de l’industrie de la viande ou des produits laitiers. Mais plutôt d’encourager à adopter une approche plus globale et mesurée pour éviter de céder à la panique face aux chiffres alarmants présentés dans certaines études. En outre, ces études ne font – presque – jamais la distinction entre des modes de production industriels et des modes plus écologiques.
A ce sujet, Greenpeace recommande de privilégier des aliments issus de l’agriculture écologique plutôt que ceux issus des dernières innovations technologiques :
Car l’élevage, s’il est écologique, joue un rôle clé dans les agroécosystèmes. Il aide entre autres à optimiser la fertilisation des sols, à condition de transformer profondément la production animale et sa consommation. En effet, l’élevage écologique n’a recours qu’aux terres et aux ressources agricoles qui ne sont pas directement utilisables pour l’alimentation humaine. Sa mise en œuvre implique donc de réduire notre cheptel, en particulier en Europe, pour privilégier la qualité à la quantité.
Le fromage : à consommer avec modération pour la santé de l’environnement, article de 2016
En conclusion
C’est peut-être là que réside une partie de la solution : varier au maximum notre alimentation permet non seulement de maximiser la qualité nutritionnelle de nos repas, mais elle permet également de mieux équilibrer nos émissions carbone. Alors, cessons de nous demander s’il faut complètement remplacer nos fromages par leur équivalent végétal. Diversifions plutôt nos plateaux de fromage, proposons du Comté ET du Rouillé à nos invités !
Tu souhaites végétaliser ton alimentation ? N’hésite pas à consulter notre article sur les protéines végétales.
Si l'envie te prend de rejoindre la discussion, viens nous dire hello sur Discord et sur nos groupes Facebook privés : Santé et Nutrition, Environnement, Cuisine et Éthique et bien-être animal.
Sources :
1 – Smedman , A., Lindmark Månsson, H., Drewnowski, A. , and A.K. Edma n. 2010. Nutrient Density of Beverages in Relation t o Climate Impact . Food and Nutrition Research 54:5170.
2 – The Rehab Archipelago, Forced Labor and Other Abuses in Drug Detention Centers in Southern Vietnam, septembre 2011.
[Photo de couverture : mohamed hassouna sur Unsplash ]
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